After six days in the country I only have a minuscule insight of the giant wonder that is India but I can tell you that Delhi does have it's shocking parts of beggars, smog and raw sewerage with the usual tourist traps alive and well but nothing you won't find in other south East Asian countries.
A cross between the hustle and bustle of Bangkok with the cruel poverty of Cambodia and a red dust all of its own that settles in your nostrils with the afternoon winds. There is also the crushing heat if you time it right and of course it's own particular smell.
There are some genuinely wonderful people to be found. In particular the ones who overcome their shyness and approach just to interact with a foreigner, practice their English with native speakers or as has happened more than once, get a photo taken with the white person.
The food is fantastic once you overcome the stigma attached to the infamous Delhi belly and relax enough to enjoy it.
Seven out of eleven people - our tour group size - will get sick at some point and I'm grateful I was in a hotel room with a bed and a toilet to endure mine unlike some of my unfortunate fellow travelers who fell a day after me and had to go through it on a ten hour train ride.
The trains are not as horrifying as one is led to believe though I wouldn't want to be a female needing the toilet.....or a sick traveler.
And so I arrive here. The jewel in the crown of India. A post card of itself, the Taj Mahal, sunrise and sunset.